Puna, Hawaii's Big Island
If you're on your way to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, follow Hawaii 11 to Volcano Village, a charming rainforest town known for its glass blowing and art galleries. Nestled within the forest at the 4,000 foot elevation, it offers a refreshing contrast to the beaches of West Hawaii and the hot, barren volcanic landscape a mere mile away. While you'll want to set aside some time to browse the galleries and have a bite to eat, Volcano Village is also a good place to fill your tank with fuel for your drive home.
Driving south out of Hilo, spend a day discovering the Puna District. This area, on the eastern tip of Hawaii’s Big Island, stretches from the sea to the 1219-metre summit of Kilauea volcano. On the coast you’ll find roiling ocean, black-sand beaches and a spring warmed by the volcano’s steam. Towards the volcano you’ll find rainforests, steam vents and the rugged landscapes of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.
Puna’s most dramatic destination is Kalapana, a community that is partially covered by lava. In 1990, lava from Kilauea engulfed this historic town and the black sand beach at Kaimu. Today, the focal point is a viewing area where you can watch lava meet the sea. You can also explore the 7-hectare Lava Tree State Park where a path winds through the lava rock moulds of trees from the 1700s. Many who live on Hawaii Island say that Puna is Pele’s workshop, where the tempestuous volcano goddess continuously creates and recreates the very land we live on.
Stop off at Pahoa, an old mill town that now features a row of clapboard shops and eateries along an inviting boardwalk. If it’s the weekend, detour at the roadside Makuu Farmers Market and stock up on fresh apple bananas, roasted macadamia nuts, Kapoho strawberry papayas and sweet rambutan. In contrast to the fields of black lava, the fertile slopes between the sea and volcanic summit are ripe with tropical fruit, orchids, anthuriums and macadamia nuts.
You’ll also find a scenic 19-kilometre string of beach parks and camp sites along the coast, each offering something worth exploring: MacKenzie State Park (heiau, ironwood forest), Isaac Hale Beach Park, Ahalanui Park (large seaside pond warmed by the volcano), and Waiopae Tidepools Marine Life Conservation District (incredible snorkelling among connecting rock pools). Kehena Beach is a secluded black sand beach hidden from view of the roadway.
Along the easternmost point of the Big Island is the Cape Kumukahi area, which offers scenic hiking, and what scientists insist is the world’s freshest air. Visit the Cape Kumukahi Lighthouse, which was spared by Pele from lava flow in 1960. You can also join the locals and hike a little over a kilometre and a half south to Kapoho Bay where another coastal bath, geothermally heated by Kilauea volcano, can be found. Whether you’re on a day-trip or staying at a bed and breakfast or holiday rental, visit Puna to find amazing off-the-beaten-track discoveries.